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Iquique (Chile) - Puerto Montt (Chile)

Leg details

December 22, 2013 - February 21, 2014
Iquique - Punta Patache - Antofogasta - Taltal - Caldera - La Serena - Paso Agua Negra - La Serena Ovalle - Illapel - Valparaíso - Pichilemu - Constitución - Parra - Valdivia - Osorno - Puerto Montt

Leg map (click to enlarge in separate window)

The Sunday evening before Christmas we go into Iquique to see if they have any sections with Christmas decoration.

There are a few decorated trees, the tram is nicely decorated. The park along the beach is nicely decorated including a nativity set.

Click here to view the setup.

We hear and see cars, vans and trucks that are decorated with Christmas ornaments or even made up as sledges with Reindeers and Santas (in all forms ... even as bikini girls with red heats .....). They drive around in Iquique's streets with much tooting and honking .... some even with pretty loud stereo systems ..... and we wonder a bit what this is all about.

We find out that Iquique has a special tradition for Christmas, the Navidad Iquiqueña.
The weekend before Christmas the companies send out "Santa" and his helpers to bring presdents to the houses of their workers.
So from around noon on Friday until late on Sunday evening management drives around in decorated company vehicles distributing presents ....... the longer the way to the employees house the better ....
There are even special flights into Iquique for this event!

We celebrate Christmas with two "solitary" travellers Lothar and Damian.

On Wednesday, December 25, 2013, we leave Iquique in southerly direction on the Ruta 1.
The bitumen road is under construction and eventually will be a 4-lane highway to the airport of Iquique and further on towards Antofagasta.
At the airport the majority of the cars in the parking lot are red utes ..... it looks as if "fly-in-fly-out" of mine employees is common in Chile too ......

We pass Patillos, a harbour where Saltpeter from the mines in the Atacama desert is loaded to the cargo ships.
Patache a few km further on has the next harbour ...... also for Saltpeter .....
Looking at the waiting cargo ships business for organic Saltpeter really must be picking up.

All over we see signs "Zona de seguridad" pointing to the areas that are tsunami-safe.
Even though this coastal stretch is not the most dangerous one it is well prepared for Tsunamis.
Once we are closer to Santiago de Chile we will have to check out the area before we settle down for the night, so we know in which direction we have to drive away from the ocean in case of a Tsunami alarm.

We come past many playas (beaches).
They are still not much populated but from tomorrow on Chile will be on holidays and things might look a wee bit different ......

We drive out to the Punta Patache, a former "Guaneria", where Guano was scraped off the rocks.
We find a nice spot just beside a "loberia" (seal hatchery) with great views ...... and high enough so we would be safe from a Tsunami.

In the afternoon we get a visit from 2 navy officers who check the horizon with binoculars.

On Thursday we spend the day between sitting in front of the PCs and going down to the water and watch the animals.

The sun is very strong. We can heat the water in the boiler and as well recharge the batteries using the power from our solar cells.

In the afternoon the same two navy officers come again and check the security.
We have a bit of a chat with them and find out that the worst days to be on the road in Chile are December 31 and the January 1.
Good to know ..... we will be careful on those days.

On Friday we spend quite some time having a closer look at the "gardens" in between the rocks with all its inhabitants.

Some of them are very colourful!

Watching the animals is not easy as they are rather shy.
We see a fish that sucks itsef to the rock and is washed over by the waves .... half in the water half ourside of the water ..... strange .....

The distance between the rocks were the seals live and the "main land" is very small and gives us a good view on the activities in the colony.
It is amazing to watch these heavy animals get ashore and "climb" up the rocks.

Click here to see them climbing.

One seal actually moves over to the "main land" but is not really keen on having its picture taken from too close .....

In the afternoon the navy checks on us again ........ this time in a helicopter ......

On Saturday we leave our spot at the Loberia and head south on the R1.

At Rio Loa we reach the customs.
Here the ZOFRI, the duty-free area of Iquique, ends and all goods that were bought in the zone have to be declared and duty paid on.
The officer has a quick glimpse into the camper, gives us the required stamp, clearing us and off we are again.

We travel south along the ocean.

Where ever there is Kelp along the shore people have built makeshift shacks and are collecting the Kelp.
It seems to be a rather young industry as there are not yet many larger and established houses, just huts or even tents.

Every so often we come past small fishing towns with little colourful ships in the small harbours
Also there are many cliffs with white tips indicating that guano birds live there.

We come past an area where it looks as if plots of land have been marked with white sand.
We wonder a bit because of the odd shapes until we see that this is a golf course ...... there is even somebody exercising in the sand!
It looks rather strange ......
Shortly after we reach Tocopilla and see the sign to the golf course ......

Tocopilla is squashed in between the ocean and some high hills behind it.
It is an industrial centre and is not really pretty ..... but it has a bakery and a good market and that is all we need at the moment.

As we continue on south we see green signs with the word "EVACAM, a red cross beside it and the indication of a distance in km.
Then we come past a sign with no indication of distance and find a turn-off to a runway.
Now it all makes sense!
This must be some system similar to the Royal Flying Doctor system in Australia, an air ambulance .... EVACuation - AMbulance or similar .....

Further south we suddenly find an old cemetery in the sand dunes that is still in good condition.
Most crosses have been decorated with a white pompom that makes it look quite friendly.

Shortly after we reach Gatico ........ a former port ......... the ruins of a once elegant house on the rocks is all that is left of its glory ......

Past the beaches of Hornitos we reach Mejillones.
According to the guide book this is supposed to be the largest port in South America.
We come past the town's centre which is quite nice with the fishing boats and the plaza ...... but we cannot find a large port ........

We return to the R1 and drive south towards Antofagasta.
We reach a toll plaza and are surprised that we are charged as small truck.
Susi is not impressed at all and asks for the manager but she is not in-house.
Frustrated we give up and pay 4'450 Pesos (9.50 AU$) for some 30 km of road .
We understand that she cannot charge us 850 like for cars but the 2'500 Pesos for buses would have been more appropriate!
It must be one of the dearest stretches of road we have driven in South America so far.
Only South Africa has had more expensive tolls on their roads.

We deviate to the B440 towards La Portada, a natural rock arch.
Doesn't it look very similar to some parts of the Great Ocean Road on Australia ......?

Susi visits the local CONAF office to check on the annual park entry permit but the ranger informs us that it will only be available after January 1.

We had received information from other travellers that the area north of La Portada is good for staying over night.
We find a dirt track and follow it along the coast but decide that we don't like it ..... too close to the road, no spot to "hide", too many empty glass bottle indicating that this is a much liked drinking spot ........ this is not a good sport to stand on a Saturday ........
So we continue on the B440 towards Juan Lopez.
The beach is busy with camping people, kite surfers, quad riders ........ not what we like .....
So we head up hill and then deviate towards Santa Maria.
There we find a little track to a hidden spot down the hill with some nice views over the Antofagasta bay where we stay for the night.

On Sunday morning, December 29, we drive back to La Portada.
On our visit yesterday we had seen some steps leading down to the beach.
And the leaflet we had received at the CONAF office says that hundreds of pelicans and other birds nest down there.
But we don't get far; the gate is locked because of rock falls ........ what a shame ......

But the binoculars and teleobjective give us the chance to watch the birds a bit closer.

We head into Antofagasta.
The part of the town along the ocean is quite pleasing with lots of high risers, a pretty promenade along the water, some protected beaches (which were already pretty crowded at 10 AM ......) and a large shopping mall with a nicely stocked Tottus (South Americas Wallmart).
We are lucky and find a parking spot near the mall where we don't have to mind the height of the OKA.
Otherwise it is difficult to find parking along the ocean for vehicles like ours ...... most parking areas are restricted to 2.10 m in height ........

We find this really great looking old house witch has been expertly painted on. Some parts are real, others are painted. It is very hard to distinguis between real and fiction.

We take the R1 out of town and then the R5 south.
Shortly after Paradero Barazate we reach the Mano del desierto, a large concrete sculpture of a hand.
Even though the sculpture was created in 1992 it is neither marked in our guide books nor on the maps we have.
So here the GPS position should you want to visit it:
S 24° 09.502', W 070° 09.319'

We return a few km north and take the small B70 heading down to the coast again.

The dirt track is in pretty good shape but has some narrow sections.
It is funny to see road signs on a dirtt track like this one is .....

We cross a pass at almost 1'700 m above sea level and then descend into a valley.
The fog is already climbing up from the ocean. It looks very pretty.

As we approach the fog the temperature drops from 27°C to 21°C within minutes .....
Then the sun disappears for the rest of the day behind a thick fog curtain.

This seems to be a regular happening.
From the area where the fog starts down into the valley there are cacti .... many of them ... that seem to live with the humidity they can get out of the fog.

We descend to the ocean again and reach the R1 and the ruins of Coleta del Cobre.
The R1 is now a dirt road and is in a shocking state.
The corrugation is so bad that we can hardly understand each other because of the noise of the rattling in the driver's cab (which this time is not an OKA problem ....).

We find ourselves a nice spot for the night, with ocean views ...... but with some 33 m not really high enough above sea level, but the road into the mountain is close should we have to escape ......
During the night it gets rather fresh with 14.5°C ........

On Monday morning we wake up to an overcast day.
We haven't seen weather like this since we left Lima!

As we continue driving south we come past some signs of flooding.
The mountains have almost no vegetation so the smallest amount of rain or even thick fog can already generate small rivers.

But the good side of the fog is that more and more cacti show up along the road.
In some sections it looks as if they had some rain recently, even the track is wet in some areas ........

We continue on south. The track is really bad.

The track decends to almost sea level ... not a good section to drive when it is stormy ....

Shortly after Quebrada El Medano the road improves dramatically ....... but only for a few km!
Then all is over and the track becomes bad again .... all what is left from the noble plan of improving the local roads is a sign and some road signs ..... which sometimes look a bit odd .....

Then, some 10 km before Paposo the dirt road becomes wide and is in very good condition.
We don't mind at all after almost 100 km of very bad dirt road.

It is a typical Chilean salt road, where salt water is used to build and maintain the road.
These roads are normally very good even if they are wet but the salt it is hell for the vehicles ........

In this area also there is especially thick fog and the Reserva Nacional Paposo.
There are different sorts of cacti and many of them are in bloom.
Susi loves it.

It is interesting to see the change in the cacti from the dry area to the foggy area ......

The flowers are also intersting .....

.... some weared deformations ...... and intersting rocks!

In some sections there are even some flowers blooming!

From Paposo on the R1 is bitumen and very good.
So it does not take long and we reach Taltal.

At the service station while Ruedi is filling the water tanks Susi sees that something is dripping from the back axle ......
Ruedi had also noticed it but not yet had a look at it.
Now he does and finds that the body of one shock absorber on the back axle is leaking.
The sock absorbers are too close to the mounting assembly of the axle and with all this bumping and winding one of the shockies has now been scratched and is losing oil .....
We will have to try to find a replacement which might not be easy at all.
For the moment Ruedi removes the shockie and we continue on. Due to the multy-layer leaf springs the OKA can easily be driven without any shock absorbers.

At Breas we take the B900 towards Cifuncho and shortly after find a small track to the side .... perfect for the night.

On Tuesday morning the sun shines again.
We head back to the R1 and then continue on towards Santiago de Chile on the R5.

Every so often we come past small mines ...... the whole section seems to be full of "holes" ......

We come past some rock faults ...... where the mountain looks like somebody has ripped it apart .....
We also notice that the whole area is covered with white posts ..... looks like measuring points .... and wonder what they are for .....
Do they keep track of the movement of the ground .... before and after earth quakes ....?
We don't know ......

At La Bomba we take the C112 towards the Parque Nacional Pan de Azucar.
Only vehicles with 2 axles are allowed in ..... we wonder what the 3-axle-Pinzgauer we met in Arequipa would do here .....

The mountains in the area are very colourful but otherwise it is very dry .....
Eventually we reach the sign of the entry into the park and right there the desert changes and becomes covered with tough-looking grass ......
The dirt track is very good and slowly we descend into the valley.
To Susi's disappointment there are not many flowering cacti or flowers around ..... there was more life in the area around Paposo ......

But she still finds a few flowers that she has not yet seen ....

... a very intersting one too ......

We reach Caleta Pan de Azucar, an area of the park were some camps and restaurants are available.
We also find the CONAF office and want to enquire about the yearly entry pass to all national parks but the office is closed.
Well then, we will try again in the next park .....

Right after the exit of the park we see a well-driven track leading down to the beach.
Looks like the spot for the rest of the day and the night.

There are a few nice spots for camping but we decide to pick the one highest up, 48 m above sea level, so we can sleep well and don't have to worry about Tsunamis.
Somehow the constant view of the Tsunami warning signs are starting to makes us a bit jumpy ...... but better being careful one time to often than sorry!

As today is New Year's eve Susi plans a good dinner with some steaks with tomato and onion topping, rice and mangoes for desert.
The sparkling wine is already in the fridge ......
But the cook (Susi) is not lucky today .....
The rice has to be postponed as the gnoggi have to be used irst ...... and the gnoggi get too soft too quickly ......
The meat did look much better while rapped up ..... Susi cannot find a good spot to cut the steaks from ..... and the meat is tough ......
To top it all the sparkling wine tastes corky ...... but it was chosen by Ruedi .... so he also has his part in this "special" meal.
At least one is for certain: In the new year the kitchen can only get better!!!!

At least the table decoration, some horseshoes made from marzipan, taste great!
Luckily we have a bottle of port wine so we can at least cheers to the new year!
For sure we will not forget this new year's eve so quickly!!!!!!

On Wednesday, January 1, 2014, we continue on in southerly direction on the dirt track.
We come past some copper-green coloured sand where water is allowed to seep into the ground.
We follow the water for a few km and see that it comes from a mine.
We see that sand of the whole plain of Chañaral has a green touch too ......
Luckily the Chilean government has tightened the laws regarding conservation of the environment and things like this have to be dealt with.
In Chañaral we reach the R5 and bitumen again.

Along the road many of the small memorials for road accident victims are decorated with Christmas trees.

We come past a lot of beaches and small holiday villages which look more like a assembly of garden sheds .......
Somehow they still not seem to be very busy ....... also the road is not really busy.
We had expected holiday-traffic-hell to break loose but so far it has not happened.

We come along some more areas of desert that are densely populated with cacti and also some flowers.
Then we reach Playa Ramada and the road turns into a 4-lane highway.

Quickly we reach Caldera.
The guide book mentiones the restored train station (the station building is the oldest one in Chile) so we go into town.
The building has been restored to its original form but now is used as the community hall ..... only a few rails have been left in it to remaind what it used to be.
Somehow we expected to find some locomotives in it and are a bit disappointed.

At least the sculpture made from rails looks good and the harbor is colourful.

From Caldera we follow the beach on the C302 towards Bahia Blanca, one of the summer holiday resorts.
Here the beaches are busier but still not as we had expected it.
We continue on the C302 and come past the very pretty beach of Playa Cisne.
Even though a strong wind is blowing and the air is rather fresh with only 23°C people are in the water having a swim.
Brrrrrrrrrrrr ..........

The good dirt road follows the coast line and we see small groups of people scattered along the beach, sheltering against the wind behind rocks and sand dunes.
Then the area gets green and we reach the delta of the Rio Copiapó.
We are surprised to see so much green in this desert of sand and salt.

Next stop is Puerto Viejo, another summer-holiday-town.
But for us Puerto Viejo looks more like a shanty town ........
It is difficult to understand how people can live in such makeshift huts even for holidays.......

Note to the traveler:
Should your map indicate the road to continue along the coast it is not so; Puerto Viejo is a "dead end".

From Puerto Viejo the dirt road goes inland and starts climbing.
It also becomes a bit bumpy for a few km until we reach the C358 and a good salt road again.
We want to follow the ocean as much as we can so we pick the C322.

We reach a plain that is covered with cacti and plants.
It looks like the fog from the ocean on its way uphill condenses here.
The plants are covered with mosses and lychens.

We come past a factory that is being built out in the desert ..... we wonder what it will be ..... out here, far away from the ocean ..... strange .....

Then the road descends to the ocean and we reach a nice beach near Punta Cachas and settle for the night.
It is only 15 m above sea level but we decide that this will have to do for today ......

During the night and during low tide the ocean gets so quiet that Ruedi gets up to check if all is ok ........
and Susi dreams of Tsunamis, pirates, wrecked ships ......... so tomorrow we will camp at a higher spot again .........
This all sounds a bit insane but one should not forget that the Chilean cost is seismologicaly very active, with lots of earthquakes.
In addition we often set camp fare outbush at places where the cost-wide alarm-system cannot get heard.
Epilog: 3 month after we passed the cost on April 1st 2014 an 8.2 magnitude earthquake off the cost of northern Chile occured.
900´000 peaople were evacuated along the cost. The Tsunami however was only 2 m high, but it could have been much different.

On Thursday we continue on and after Caleta Totoral the salt road climbs to more than 200 m altitude.
The scenery changes between stretches with plenty of vegetation and stretches that are barren.

Especially the area around Caleta Matamoros is very pretty.

We even see some Guanacos around but they are very shy.
We wonder how they can survive in this hostile environment .....

We reach Carrizal Baja, another holiday town but this one is colourful and appealing.
Lead by the GPS we take the C440 towards the R5 and drive to the CONAF building in the Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe.
The valley is quite green and seems to get more water than the surrounding mountains.
But the CONAF office is closed ......

We had been informed that the campsite here is nice .... but we cannot find it.
So we turn around and head back to the coast.

On the C470 we drive through the coastal section of the Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe.
Even though it is not spring anymore we can still see many flowering plants.
We can imagine that it must be very pretty when all really is in bloom (apparently in September and October ......)

On a sign we can see that there is another CONAF office ...... with a camping ......
Hmmmm .....
The GPS does not list this one at all so here the GPS coordiantes:
S 28° 11.125’, W 071° 09.448’

But again the office is closed ...... probably they are all closed over the new year ......

We find useful information on the fauna and flora and learn that guanacos, together with the vicuñas, alpacas and llamas belong to the South American camels (camelidos sudamericanos).
The alpaca and the llama are domesticated versions of the guanaco and vicuña.

We see another group of Guanacos and this time they are friendly enough to wait until Susi has changed her objective and can get a photo of them.

We reach Huasco.
The valley seems to have a lot of water here.
Where they have irrigation all is green turnign the desert-like landscape into a small place of Eden.
Olive trees thrive well and apparently some of the best olives in Chile are grown here.

Again the map shows a road that does not exist.
So we take the C46 (bitumen) and head towards the R5.
Shortly after Freirina we deviate to the C494, a small salt road.

Soon the road climbs into the mountains.





Nach Freirina auf C494, schmaleres Salzstrasse, viele Kakteen. Zick-zack hoch, Pass auf 1021 müM.Runter, wieder auf 1243 müM, runter, wieder auf 1328 müM.

Runter , C500 erreicht, gute Salzstrasse. Ca. 30 km vor Carizalillo Lilien, grün.
Carizalillo Oliven. Runter nach Caleta Carizalillo. Beim Wasserturm übernachten.



Fr 03.01.14
Caleta Carizalillo - Punta Chorros - El Tofo - La Serena
Richtung Punta Chorros, alles grün, bald Blumen.
Ausflug zu den Inslen nicht gemacht, nur 1 Tour mit 1 Std. Aufenthalt auf Insel.
Auf D110 via Chorros Bajos auf R5, viel Verkehr. Viele Blumen, rote Lillien.
Auf R5 Ausbau auf 4 Spuren. Viele Minen, grosse, kleine.
Auf D100 nach El Tofo, vor 3 Tagen geschlossen. Weiter an Küste.
Auf D190 der Küste entlang, viele Blumen.
Auf R5 nach La Serena. In Copec Zigeuner am Betteln.
Wasser erhalten, WiFi down, fahren in Dünen raus.
La Serena (11 müM)
hinter Dünen
S 29 51.319
W 071 15.876


Sa 04.01.14
La Serena
Lavanderia suchen. KYB Händler gesehen, hat passende Schockies, Monroe. Bestellt nochmals 2, auf Dienstag.
Vis-a-vis Lider Wäscherei, um 21:30 fertig.
Copec, WiFi ok. Wäsched holen, in Dünen.
Nachts "Besuch", Platz schon besetzt.
La Serena (11 müM)
hinter Dünen
S 29 51.319
W 071 15.876

So 05.01.14
La Serena - Questa de Talca - Paso Agua Negra
Zum Leuchtturm, dem Strand entlang, wie Surfers.

Durch La Serena auf R43, nach Süden. Agrikultur, bewässert.
D415, Quenbrada de Talca, Dreckstrasse, eng. Kurven zum Teil 2x ansetzten. Ab El Mollaco weite Strasse, ab Las Loicas Saltzstrasse, ab Los Rulos Teer.

Auf R41 in die Berge, Trauben für Pisco. Rio Elqui hat gut Wasser, Leute am Campen, baden.

Embalse Puclaro, wenig Wasser.

Heiss, Wind aus dem Tal, 32°C, Netze zum Wind stoppen. Ab 1300 müM keine Reben und Agrikultur mehr, Steine.

Junta del Toro, 2 Stempel auf Zettel mit "Solo Las Lagunas", Pässe bei Carabiniero abgeben.
Wenig Verkehr. PWs mit plattem Reifen.

Schöne Farben, perfektes Licht am Nachmittag.

Bis 4000 hoch, 18 Uhr, zu dunkel, retour zu Brücke unterhalb Staudamm, schlafen.

Ausstellplatz bei Brücke und Difunta Correa

Mo 06.01.14


Am Morgen kaum hell erste Utes.
Nochmals hoch, andere Seite schön in Morgensonne.


Wenden an Grenze, steilere Dreckstrasse runter, 2lows mit Motorenbreemse hält.
Viel Verkehr, vor allem Argentinier. VW Amarok mit plattem Reifen.

Garden-Pumpe jagt den Schützg raus.
Pässe abholen, an Schlange vorbei, an Quarantäne vorbei, Frage ob wir Dakar seien. Zettel abgeben.
Nach La Serena runter, Düne zum Schlafen.

La Serena
Einkaufen, retour zur Düne.

Mi 08.01.14
La Serena

Taller Carvajal. Arbeiter kommt spät.

In Sodimac einkaufen, Wasserfilter gefunden.
Arbeiter immer noch nicht da, Mittagessen, Chef kommt, umparkieren.

Lager wird von Nachbarn (Spengler) rausgenommen: Schraube reinschweissen!
Ruedi macht die meiste Arbeit, nur Hilfe beim Einsetzen von Lager und Dichtung (mit gleich grossem Gegenstand, dann fest schlagen)
Um 18 Uhr fertig, schwatzen mit Leuten. Lustig.

Do 09.01.14
La Serena
Ruedi ersetzt Yoke-Dichtung.
Einkaufen, Coupe essen, zur Düne.
Ruedi ersetzt die Shockies.
Wallas streikt wieder.

Fr 10.01.14
La Serena
Copec, Tanken, Wasser füllen, WiFi down, retour.
Ruedi flickt Gardena Pumpe, Turbine total verdreckt.
Wallas angeschaut, nichts gefunden, funktioniert wieder.

Sa 11.01.14
La Serena - Coquimba - La Serena
Zur Copec, WiFi ok. AHV gemacht.
Zum Jumbo einkaufen. Begleitfahrzeug von Dakar getroffen, Info bekommen.
Nach Coquimbo Lubricante suchen.

Am Strand retour, wie Surfers, relaitv viele Leute am Strand.

Pizza essen gegangen. Retour.

Einer klopft, will Gas verkaufen.

So 12.01.14
La Serena
Ruedi schmiert ab und tauscht die Shockies aus. Einer ist gequetscht vom Rausnehmen der Gummis.
PC len

Mo 13.01.14

Bei Shockiesmensch vorbei, shockies seien ok ….

Auf R41 nach La Vicuña, auf D445 abzweigen. Rel. breites und gutes Drecksträsschen druch Reben.

Bald steil den Berg hoch zum Observatorium, dann schmäler und eheml. Salzsträsschen.

Trocken, Kakteen. El Pague Reben und grün.


Lustige "Jurten". Dann wieder trocken. Farbiges Tal.

Puente El Arenal schmal, Holz, jemand durchgebrochen.

Portezuelo Tres Cruzes: 2010 müM, dann steil runter. Hurtado auf 1214 müM.
In Dörfchen Psetzsi-Steil-Strassen, sonst Salzsträsschen, rel. gut, keine Corrugation.
Grünes Tal, Reben, später Obstbäume, alles bewässert. Bei Morillos lustige Bergformationen.

Vor La Fundina Strässchen in Berge genommen, gut zum Stehen.

Di 14.01.14
La Fundina
Schlafen rel. schlecht, Susi viele Schweissausbrüche, Ruedi Kopfweh und etwas Fieber.
Pclen, Ruedi an Zim-ZA-Zim, Susi an Sür-Peru

Mi 15.01.14

Am Morgen via Fundina (wieder Teer) und Pichasa zum Mon. Natural Pichasca, haben keinen Jahrespass.
Guten Baumstamm, Dino, machen ihm ein "Häufchen".

Nähe Sano Alto Las Tinajas Petroglyphen, lassen es aus.

Enbalse Recolta fast leer, Club Nautico auf dem Trockenen.

Gefährliche Einfahrt auf R43, 90°-Kurve ohne Warntafel, dann Einbahn. Auf R43 durch Ovalle, auf R45, dann D505. Auf Krete, Flüsschen auf beiden Seiten. Plantagen.
Trapiche, Las Sossas, Quebrada hoch, dann weg vom Teer auf D535 (Salz). Hochebene, alles bewässert, dann grün, sonst Wüste.
Bewölkung kommt auf, Temp. von 28° auf 21°. Dann über R5, dann parallel auf super Teerstrasse nach Norden auf D540. Wird Drecktrack, corrugated.Grosse Getreideächer, alles wird grüner, Blumen.
Im Park keinen Jahrespass, campen vor dem Eingang.
Um 20 kommt noch ein MAN, Wolfgang und Anke. Probleme mit Kuplung, Luft drin ab 3000 müM.

Do 16.01.14

Super Wetter, gehen mit Wolgang und Anke auf den Rundgang.


Noch recht viel Blumen, aber früher besser.

Auf Steilhang fällt mit lows und Motorenbremse 4WD wieder 2x raus, ohne lockers nicht, dafür rutscht OKA schnell.


Auf R5 bis Copec Socos, schöne Autobahn. Spectator area Fleyer runterladen, auf D607 auf Dreckweglein bis Peña Blanca, Platz für Dakar belegen.

Wagenkolone bis Dorf, gehen dann aber wieder.

Fr 17.01.14
Peña Blanca
Nichts los bis am Na. Bekommen Nachbar.
Weblen. Schafe und Ziegen werden mit Pferd und Hund in Gehäge getrieben.
Am späten Na kommen langsam Leute, die meisten fahren weiter.
Um 20 Uhr fährt Nr. 14 der Sicherheitsfahrzeuge die Strecke ab.
Über Nacht viele Leute, relativ laut, schlecht geschlafen.

Sa 18.01.14
Peña Blanca (Dakar)
Am Morgen früh wach, viele Nachbarn bekommen, 7 gleich vor OKA.
Einer kennt uns von La Serena.
2 Dakar Fahrzeuge und 2 Polizisten auf Töffs fahren Strecke ab.

Ab 9 Uhr Töffs und Quads. Ab c.a 10 Uhr Töffs im Minuten Abstand, viel schneller als die anderen.
Heli mit Kamera über Peña Blanca. Später ncoh 2 Helis mit Kamera aber auf Durchreise.

Dann Autus, dann Laster und Autos gemischt, auch Buggys.

545 geht über den Rand, rettet sich aber gut.

ca. 13 Uhr Rennen fertig, Schlussfahrzeuge, kommt noch ein Nachzügler.
Ca. 14:30 alle weg, Mittagsschlaf. Am abend werden Tiere wieder freigelassen. Gegen 10 Uhr Wetterleuchten, vermtl. Feuerwerk.

Click here to view the movie.

So 19.01.14
Über Dakarstrecke weiter auf D607, anspruchsvoll, viele Ränke.

Auf D603, nicht auf RNH, GPS, aber auf Copec. Klein, aber ok. Auf D603, Hügel. Track auf Krete, hübsch. Strasse ist z.T. recht umgeackert, wie Bachbett, z.T. eng für trucks. Nach ca. 30 km weg auf D607 nach Norden, Dakar geht nach Süden. Navigation schwierig, Weg nach Centinella auf Sopec drauf, finden ihn nicht, aussen rum über La Placilla - Medialuna.

Portezuelo Blancos, Pass auf 1000 müM, Sicht auf Anden. La Higuera grün, bewässert, Obst, Reben, Baumnüsse. Auf D601, Teer im Dorf, langes Dorf.


Auf D605, Salzstrasse, Goldminen, Schutthalde.

Cuesta de los Mantos, breite gute Dreckstrasse, frisch gegraded. Manquehua, Agua Amarilla, blühende Agaven, corriugation.

Pass, schöne Sicht in die Anden. Ab La Cienaga grüner. Nach El Sauce roadbase bereit zum Graden, ab Soruco Teer. Trotz 800 - 900 müM heiss, 29°C. Schöne Strecke, viele Farben.
Auf D661 weg nach Pama Abaja, track den Berg hoch, an Quarry vorbei, führt über klienen Pass rüber auf Teer von D55 nach Combarbalá. Gut zum Stehen. Duschen, PClen.

Mo 20.01.14
Nach Combarbalá einkaufen, auf Strässchen Observatorio Cruz del Sur stehen bis am Abend

Desinfiezmittel ausgelaufen, Regenponchos, Regenhüte und Regenhose Susi betroffen.
Tour machen.



Di 21.01.14
Auf D71 über Cuesta de Espinos über Pass (1685 müM) rüber Richtung Illapel. Dreckstrasse mit z.T. grober corrugation, eng.
Minen, Lastwagen. Auf D705 kurz zur Reserva Nacional Las Chinchillas, falsche Jahrezeit, nur Nachthaus. Regen: Juni - August, Blumen Sept. / Okt.

Nach Illapel, grpnes Tal, viele neue Anplanzungen. Auf D85 über Cuesta Cavilolen relativ steil ins Tal runter bis R5.
Los Vilos auf Copec Internet und übernachtet.
Copec mit gutem WiFi, Dusche, WC, nicht ganz neben Autobahn

Mi 22.01.14
Mirador Laguna Conchali hübsch zum Stehen (Eingang Puerto Piunta Chungo südlich Copec, ganz am Ende der Strasse).

Auf R5 bis Pichidangui, hübsches Dörfchen, schöne Häuser. Los Molles Puquén gesucht (S 32° 14.333, W 071° 31.079), keine Action da keine Wellen.

Auf F-30-E an die Küste.

Pupado: Häuser im Tudor-Stil, Zapallar: Tannenwälder. Strasse eng und viel Verkehr.

Überland nach Concón, Industrie, nichts besonderes.
Ab Concón Hochhäuser, Strand, viel Verkehr, "Riviera".




In Valparaiso Dakar Autos im Hafen, Autotransportern (Eukor) bereit zum Einlaufen.

Stehen beim Mirador Faro Punta de Angeles.



Do 23.01.14

Valparaiso besucht.

Museo a Cielo Abierto nicht mehr gut. Sosnt aber gute neue Murals.

Dakar-Fahrzeuge im Muelle Barron. Lobos.

Auf R60 nach Süden, Autobahnin die Hügel. Auf F98G weg nach Laguna Verde. Viele Leute, gut einsehbar.
Fahren weiter auf Camino del Faro, gute Plätzchen auf Properties welche noch frei sind.Camino al Faro, property mit Wald und Sicht aufs Meer


Fr 24.01.14

Fahrt nach Süden durch Tannen- und Eukalyptuswälder, wird immer grüner. Wechseln auf F730. Stauseen, Holzindustrie.
Auf R60. Ziegelbrennereien.
Auf R68F, Hauptautobahn nach Santiago, viel Verkehr. R.N. Lago Penuelas, Tannenwald, Waldbrand über Autobahn gesprungen, Reser. Forestal Peñuelas.

F90, F962G, G94F, G90F nach Cartagena, viele Leute, eng.

Laguna de Cartagena, Schwarzhalsschwäne, Coipos.

G90F, G94F, R66, I80G, G80I, R90. Gebiet wie in Australien, Korn, Schafe, Eukalyptus.
Sägereien, Farmen, Blueberries, Erdbeeren, Lucumas, Papayas, etc.
Wald, Strassse rauf und runter, über Pass 524 müM.


Runter zur Küste nach Pichilemu, Eingangs Dorf Strasse fertig ohne Markierung, kreuz und quer durch das Dorf wieder raus.

Punta de Lobos, Surfer, viele Leute und Autos.

Schweirig zum Stehen.
I502 Laguna de Perros, Camping, teuer.Kalteasserduschen
Sa 25.01.14

Cahuil, herzig, touristisch, ehemal. Fähre noch dort.
Wälder, Holzlastwagen.

Lo Valdivia Salzarbeiter.

Beginn Ruta del Mar, eng, steiles Dreckweglein rauf auf 252 müM. Schöne Wälder, Aussciht! Strecke am Na fahren wegen Licht!

Laguna Torca viele Schwarzhalsschwäne, Holzsteg.


Llico,herzig, gut gepflegt. Muelle. Sind neue Strasse am bauen .....
J830 Teer und Dreck dem See Vichuquén enlang. Könnte Innerschweiz sein!
Weg nach Lipimavida eng, steil, recht Verkehr, staubig.
Lipimavida Playa del Infiernillo besicht, viele Leute, nochts besonderes. Auf J60 nach Süden. Lange Dörfer mit vielen Leuten und Verkehr.
Nach Iloca keine Leute mehr, da Strand weiter weg.
Schwarze Sanddünen, alles eingehagt. Schwierig zum Stehen.

Finden Camping Municipal von Los Rabanos. Viele Leute, aber hinten an Lagune.

Los Rabanos - Concepcion - Chanco - Parral - R5 - Chillán
Lagunenlandschaft, schön, viele Stellplätze, Humedal. Der Küste entlang Kühe, Weiden, alles grün. Putú, Sanddünen nicht gefunden ….
Constitucion, Pulp mill.


Zum Santuario de la Naturaleza, Piedra de la Iglesia, Pelikane.

Sackgasse, M50 gesperrt. Rauf auf Berg, agrikultur, Wälder. Weitere Pulp mills, Holzindustrie.
In Chanco auf Markt, keinen Käse gefunden. Abzweiger nach Pelluhue, bei disko Mittagessen, dann Knall, Hinterachse kaputt.
Auf Teer nach Parral auf R5. Nach Süden bis Copec in Chillán. Im Landesinneren heiss.
Wissen nicht was Schaden ist: links rotbrauner Metalabrieb, ganz fein. Beim Drehen weich, Kardan dreht ersten Teil der Umdrehung nicht mit. Spidergear kaputt????
Rechts sieht nach gebrochener Achswelle aus, viel Fett / Oel aussen.

Copec ChillánCopec mit gutem WiFi, Dusche, WC, Dusche

Mo 27.01.14

Ruedi legt Achsen still und nimmt Kardan runter.

Nach Süden, komisches Geräusch, auf Weg raus, im Sand versoffen.
Bis Copec Los Amngels fahren, duschen, übernachten.Copec mit gutem WiFi, Dusche, WC
Mit Francisco Kontakt aufnehmen.

Di 28.01.14

Vibrationen auch im Stillstand. Slip joint ist ausgeschlagen.
Auf R5 bis San Jose de la Mariquina, dann auf 205 nach Valdivia.
Schöne Gegen mit Vulkanen, Wäldern, Agrikultur.

Zu Francisco, werdne mit grossen Muscheln und Lachsfilet erwartet.
Am Abend in die Stadt. Beim Mech vorbei, kommt morgen.

Mi 29.01.14
OKA kärchern. Mech kommt schauen, denkt auch, dass es nur die Achswelle ist.
Ruedi baut die Kardane aus.

Do 30.01.14
Mit Francisco in der Stadt herum fahren und Filter berstellen, Fenster bestellen, Kardane bringen.
Regnet immer wieder, der erste richtige Regen in Südamerika seit Bolivien …
Ruth kommt aus Bariloche.

Fr 31.01.14
Filter sind ohne Glas, Bestellung gelöscht.
Einkaufen, One-Direction Sachen für JoJo.
Kochen Rösti und Bratwurst.

Sa 01.02.14
Mech kommt, Slip joints sind zu kurz, die er bekommt.
Beschliessen abzuwarten, was nächste Woche aus Santiago als Info kommt.
Packen die Bücher mit Servietten ein, kein Geschenkpapier.

So 02.02.14, regnerisch
Geburtstag JoJo.

Mo 03.02.14, sonnig
Di 04.02.14; regnerisch

Mi 05.02.14, sonnig
Paul schickt drive shaft ab.
Do 06.02.14, regnerisch
Drive shaft ist in den USA.
Fr 07.02.14, regnerisch
Ruth reist ab.
Drive shaft ist in Chile.


Sa 08.02.14, morgen bedeckt, am Na sonnig
Fensterscheibe raus trennen und wieder rein kleben.
Navimag gebucht auf den 21.

So 09.02.14, sonnig
Besuch von Markt.



Fenster einsetzten, mühsam.
Einbau Heizungssteuerung angefangen.
Solarkontroller Trennschalter eingebaut.
Andreas und Doreen kennen gelernt.

Mo 10.02.14, sonnig
Solarkontrollertrennschaltern spinnt. Ausgebaut.
Einbau Heizungssteuerung.

Di 11.02.14, z.T. sonnig
Einbau Heizungssteuerung.
Kardan wird geliefert.

Mi 12.02.14, sonnig
Ruedi montiert den Kardan, hilft dann Francisco mit der Winde und dem Eisschrank.
Susi mit Rosamaria am Webseiten wieder aufschalten für Francisco.
Bei Navimag auf Facebook reklamiert.
DHL meldet sich bei Francisco wegen Zollgebühren.

Do 13.02.14, sonnig
Heizung eingebaut. Testen.
Hinterer Kardan einbauen.


Fr 14.02.14, sonnig
Ruedi baut Welle aus, Susi reinigt die Schrauben.
Francisco holt Welle.

Sa 15.02.14, sonnig
Lange Welle kürzen und einbauen.
Welle auf anderer Seite ist tip-top

So 16.02.14
Welle wieder montieren



Fondue Chinoise Abschiedsessen
Am Abend gehen Rosamaria, Sophie und Jojo auf den Bus nach Santiago.

Mo 17.02.14, sonnig
Valdivia - La Union - Chifca
Reisefertig machen, Mail an Piet re Achswelle, Robin re neuen Achsen. NTs brauchen Achsen ….
Fahren südlich raus aus Valdivia, Humedales, hübsch. Auf R5 bis Copec Chifca.

Copec mit gutem WiFi, Dusche, WC

Di 18.02.14, Regen, am Na z.T. sonnig
Chifca - Puerto Montt - Puerto Varas
Regen, Bremsen sind wieder schlecht.
Kaufen Billet, suchen Nachtplatz, schwierig, alles eingezäunt, steil oder weich. Entscheiden auf Copec mit Internet zu fahren.
OKA hupt einfach los. Wegen Salz entsteht im Regen ein Kontakt. Relais ersetzt.

Mi 19.02.14, z.T. sonnig
Puerto Varas
Bodenheizung hat Luft. 3 dl Kühlflüssigkeit nachgefüllt. In Zukunft auf halbe/halbe stellen mit Motor.
Bleiben auf Copec.
Am Abend und in der Nacht Ruedi Durchfall.

Do 20.02.14, z.T. sonnig
Puerto Varas
Ruedi immer noch Durchfall.





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Last updated: Sunday, 17.02.2019 5:40 PM

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